When I was for the first time in Iceland four years ago I really was fascinated with this beautiful country, landscapes, waterfalls, harmony with nature. And people like Johann, who was calmly and methodically revealing to me every so often new interesting places where one could photograph birds. His knowledge of birds, not only the Icelandic ones, is almost overwhelming. At that time it was very important for me to have more and more species on my website (this approach gradually turned into qualitative). All this and the fact that only few days I was able to devote to shooting together with Johann, unfortunately had impact on the quality of the photos I had taken then. My approach to photography is evolving constantly, and now the amount of photos is not relevant any more, the most important is the quality, especially the quality of those species I am really interested in. And finally after four years the time has come to meet Johann again and shoot together. This time the scenario of the photo workshop was already carefully planned, as our ambitious objective was to photograph the gyrfalcon - the world's largest falcon. In Iceland you have to overcome several difficulties to find this bird and of course - take pictures. To photograph a falcon it is needed to find its nest. Gyrfalcons are under strict protection in Iceland and globally this species is treated as threatened with extinction. It is required to obtain an official consent for such photographing of a gyrfalcon in Iceland, just like with some species in Poland. I acquired such permit 3 weeks before departure to Iceland. But in the document there were no information on where to find the birds, no attachment with tips. And finding them in Iceland within the area of 100,000 square kilometers is not an easy task. The photo session was arranged in a carefully planned manner, so that we could appear near the nests at the end of the chicks’ feeding period but before they leave the nest what could happen any day. It should not cause any harm to fully-feathered chicks to take food on their own. But watching adult individuals is then significantly limited, because parents appear only from time to time with fresh prey, deliver it to the nest and then go back to hunt for more. I could watch gyrfalcons three times. For the first time - in a public place - at the viewpoint on the hill. All around the rocky cliffs and the weather quite unfavorable, as it was raining. We took up binoculars and looked carefully around to find on the rock shelves a gyrfalcon - the more desirable reward. Several dozen minutes of surveying the area did not work and we were getting wetter - we gave up and returned to our car. At that time the silhouette of a bird that flew towards us appeared in the sky. It flew several meters above our heads. We chose this place to check deliberately. Gyrfalcons used to build their nests not far from the viewpoint, which now is extremely popular with tourists. And the latter are more and more in Iceland, nowadays the number of tourists exceeds two million annually. Maybe for this reason the birds move to more isolated places. The bird, which suddenly emerged, dived into the ravine nearby and disappeared. We walked over a rocky cliff to see if it sat down somewhere below. It took us a while looking for – and here it is! It sat down in a roofed rock niche and soaking wet with the rain cleaned its feathers. I could take my first photos of a gyrfalcon. It is hard to express what a joy and emotions I experienced. Since there can be no assurance that one can find a gyrfalcon even though made an extreme effort reaching the places where these birds are likely to occur and completed all required legal formalities. The next day we set off to the gyrfalcon's nest. Over one and a half kilometer of walking with all equipment, a camouflage tent and a tripod, it gave us a hard time, especially since thousands of flies accompanied us. Marching on an uneven terrain with such a load it was a considerable effort. The last few hundred meters turned out to be extremely exhausting. Gyrfalcons settled on a ledge above a large stream. We climbed its opposite, steep bank. Another difficulty was setting the tent. There was no even ground thus to set the tripod and chair so that it would not slide down to the stream, or rather a small river, and withstand a few hours in such conditions waiting for an adult bird it was a big challenge. We checked the nest - there were four grown-up juveniles with down feathers here and there. An amazing view - a piece of wild Iceland. We sat down and waited. And we already knew that there was no chance for dynamic photos. Because of tent the field of vision is so narrow that you have to be extremely lucky to see the flying bird. And here, young gyrfalcons helped us. Usually, they sat quietly in the nest snacking from time to time. There was plenty of food and they did not have to compete for. After a short meal, a mandatory nap. When they closed their eyes their white eyelids were seen and they looked like they had cataract on their eyes. After a nap again a small meal, then few attempts to use their full feathered wings and watching for the silhouettes of their parents in the sky. A specific screech of the young is a signal that parents are close, unfortunately drowned out by the noise of the rushing stream. The sound is recorded so you can listen to it. Although we did not see adult birds soaring, we knew where they were. Four chicks synchronously followed the adult with their eyes and when they noticed him approaching and ready to land, the intensity of their voice grew stronger. Then you have to be fully concentrated because you have only these few seconds to take interesting shots. The adult dropped the leftovers of the prey and left. People dealing with gyrfalcons report that the year 2018 is very good for these birds. Usually, they saw two or three chicks in a nest, less frequently four. Whereas this year, although they are really experienced and are involved in it for years, for the first time in their lives they have observed 5 young birds in one nest! We could see the gyrfalcon flew up three times, and it took closer and closer look at our lookout-tent, we left after the female's departure, so that not to disturb birds any more. On the next day we were to visit another gyrfalcon’s nest. Unfortunately, it was necessary to change our plans because it was so windy day that keeping the tent steady in the open, hilly area would be impossible, not to mention taking photos. But the next day there was no wind and we started the trek uphill. It was quite similar to our previous climbing. The last several hundred meters was the hardest part. Beside that the cliff was steep it was much higher, we finally had to reach several dozen meters. But we got to the place, checked the nest and we felt weak at the knees. Such an effort, hardship and no chicks in the nest! However, we saw an adult who circled over us and watched us climbing. The bird did not attack us, what was a bit strange as this pair and especially the female, used to defend their territory and attack intruders. We were puzzled, we sat down and then in the distance we could hear sounds similar to those heard two days ago at the first nest. We quickly opened our tents and waited. After a while everything was clear. The juveniles had left the nest on that day and walked awkwardly, and tried to fly around the area. It was an amazing view of these young, this time three chicks. They walked clumsily over the rocks at the top of the mountain. Sometimes they flew a few dozen meters, probably surprised by their new skills. It seemed strange that their silhouettes would spread fear in the area soon, as there are only a small population of the white-tailed eagle and the arctic fox that could endanger gyrfalcons on Iceland. Whereas their favorite delicacy are rock ptarmigans. Al the time in the area, often outside our field of view, there were adult gyrfalcons watching closely their children's first lessons of flying. Unfortunately, it did not take the young much time to gain experience and after a few hours the mountain got deserted and everything fell silent, only the rushing stream could be heard at the foot of the cliff.
Johann, I have already thanked many times, but it should be also written down in my online diary. Many thanks to you for your time, your help in obtaining the permission and for showing gyrfalcon's nesting places. I am really grateful also to people who despite I did not meet I know they deal with the protection of gyrfalcons in Iceland. If your friends did not identify the nests sufficiently accessible to take pictures of gyrfalcons, the gallery would not be created. Some of the nests in Iceland (out of around 300) are located in such inaccessible places that there can be no satisfying photos. This time quite a long report on the gyrfalcon's photo sessions, but it was not an ordinary photographing and these experiences, emotions must be preserved. We photographed not only the world's largest falcon, but the national bird of Iceland!
So much for the second stay in the beautiful Iceland, this country where prices rise like mushrooms after rain...
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